Alejandro and water rights

We live in the country. The parcela is not huge but big enough-about 6,500 sq meters I think. This a "Mediterranean" climate which means hot days and cool nights all summer. And no measurable rainfall all summer-lots of rain in the winter, but that's another story. No rain in the summer means the canal system is very important. If we don't have canal water for a few days, our vegetable garden, flowers and grass die. There is apparently no organization of water rights or a 'ditch rider" as we had in rural Montana when I was a kid. People simply dig canals as needed and divert or shut off water as they desire. This has been a source of frustration for over a year now with no solution in sight. We talk to the neighbors, we have meetings, we cajole and beg, we get angry-all with the same result: nothing changes. Some days, we have water, some we don't. We rarely know why. If we have have water, we frantically water everything we can because tomorrow, who knows? When we don't have water, it means any trees or plants we have planted may die. earlier in the spring, I excitedly went outside in the morning to look at all the new growth around the parcela and marvel at how they had grown. Now, I check to see what has died. I have learned to plant in the fall or early spring only when the rain is still frequent.

My point here is not to complain about Chile but it made me think about that fine line between needing some organization/government intervention(the ditch rider worked for the county and had the ultimate say in water fairness-who gets water and on what days) and being left alone(in this case the neighbors argue back and forth and nothing is solved for more than a day or two).

Now about Alejandro. Alejandro is a farmer who started an alfalfa field behind our parcela. He came over to see how our canal ran through the parcela so he could make decisions about how to best water his fields. He is a little man with his pants rolled to his knees, wearing sandals, weather beaten face. In rural areas, very much like other local farmers. But he did something unexpected-he spoke some English(very few of the "country locals do)! That was nice enough. Then he told us he had been to Washington DC when Carter was President. This little old ordinary Chilean farmer had been to the Lincoln Memorial and Arlington Cemetery. Remarkable.

We see Alejandro from time to time and I always smile and imagine him as a much younger man in Washington DC. he waves at us across the field or from the road and I know he carries a fond memory of the US with him.

Back to Chile

During the long flight back to Chile, I sat next to a Chilean man who had been to the US on business(something to do with a US system for poultry processing). He knew some English so we had a long conversation-it still strikes me as funny today that his command of the English language included saying "shit" in every sentence at least once and I'm sure he didn't know it's not exactly "correct". And I didn't have the heart to mention it. So, an overnight flight and waking up to morning and sunrise over the Andes. I managed to get all the correct lines and get my baggage and was soon greeted by Chilean taxi drivers and then Michael broke from the crowd(nice to be tall!) and whisks me away.

It's summer again! Leaving Denver in the cold and then to be outside of the Santiago airport in the heat is just strange. I know it's been 12 or 14 hours but...it is strange. We hop in the jeep(after stowing my bags of treasure) and roll the windows down and we're on our way to Pirque. The now-familiar sights along the highway and then the road to Pirque(yes, I remember-right here, left there) and we're at the house again. I open the door and there are my things and I have an urge to look and touch these items. I must be home.

Michael has been working hard while I've been gone and I'm ready to jump in and help. The strangest thing happens-I got sick. It must have been a virus combined with the change of temperature and humidity(cold, dry Colorado to hot, humid Chile) and the result was that I became quite sick with normal flu-like symptoms but as those subsided, I lost my equilibrium. I couldn't walk straight-or even at all without support. I was completely dependent on Michael to walk any distance at all. "This is what it feels like to be very, very old" I thought. "What if I don't get my balance back? What if I don't get better". But surely I will. As someone who almost never gets sick and never had to be dependent, it was life-changing. We still didn't have internet at the house so were going to the internet cafe for short periods of time. I missed the internet terribly. This was my lifeline to family and friends, to a library of information, news and current events. Combined with being an invalid of sorts and just having left my family, it felt devastating. After about a month, Helia gets a prescription from her doctor which I take for 10 days-and it does nothing. I've looked on the internet and decided it's probably caused by an ear infection and I need antibiotics. Michael hatches a plan for Helia to take me to her Spanish speaking only doctor. So I pay extra to have Helia to interpret Spanish to English and insist on antibiotics. By now, I'm worried. But the antibiotics clear it up and I'm normal again in 2 weeks or so. Whew!

The internet. The neighbor next door helps us connect to his internet(sort of-it's too far away) through the wireless router we brought. So I have internet while standing in the tool shed. Our neighbor is wonderful for helping us and I am happy to have some access to internet although it's not reliable and sometimes we still go to the internet cafe for a quick email check(3 days without internet access, I find, is my limit). Getting internet(or phone etc) has proved to be quite difficult. The utility poles(there is a one a few feet on the other side of our fence) here are not as easy as calling the company and hooking up. There are complicated rules we don't understand. You must get permission to use any poles(poles are owned by the landowner not the company) and even then other rules may preclude that use(only so many or only certain types may use certain poles). Over the months, it only gets more complicated. So no internet. We ask and ask. We get answers of "no problem" but still nothing happens. The best thing about Chile is that things are slow here. And that's also the worst. There is no sense of urgency at all. A friend in far southern Chile recently ranted about no electricity after a year-which makes my internet complaint small. Internet comes to us much later when a Chilean friend says "No problem!" and means it and through her we get a usb internet plug-in that picks up the signal from cell towers. Cell signals are easy here while home phones are rare. Since January, I've wasted untold hours on the internet. I'm like a kid in a candy store.

Back in the USA

I see my last previous post was November 2007...so much happened after that. This will be my attempt to bring things up to date. Back then, we were living in a rental in Puente Alto and had internet! Soon after we moved to the new house(still under construction but with a bedroom, bath & kitchen finished) and sadly no internet. We got moved in and mostly settled and soon after I flew to the US for the coming birth of my first grandchild. Well, and also to see a few friends, do a little shopping for things that are difficult or expensive to buy here in Chile. But the main reason was to see family, hold my granddaughter, re-connect with my son and get to know the love of his life.

Going back to the states was a huge culture shock that I didn't expect. You expect it coming to Chile but going back to the US didn't feel like going "home" as I thought it would. I went through immigration/customs in Atlanta where I barely made it through long lines and security checks(during a 90 minute layover) in time to catch a plane to Denver. My son Mike came to get me at the airport and that was such a nice reunion! I was just thrilled. There was that little strangeness of going from summer to winter(I do hate the cold). I had a long list of oddities I needed to buy to bring back to Chile. An oven temperature gauge(not included on ovens here), books(in English, as many as I can carry), various kitchen utensils, pie pans, spices, well-a very long list. Not long after I arrived, so did little Josephine, on December 22nd-just in time for Christmas. Mike came back to get me(I know, I should have rented a car!) at about 11 am the 21st and Jessica's parents dropped me off at the house again at around 4 am on the 22nd. Looking back, the trip just seems like a blur. Mike was, of course, with Jessica at the hospital a lot until she came home and I did get a lot of baby holding time while Jessica slept(trying to recover from late nights with baby). My ears did perk up when they mentioned a possible shopping trip and I ran around in a frenzy attempting to cross items off my "list". The baby is wonderful and I so enjoyed that time. I also squeezed a quick trip to Seattle and Oregon in to see people. Before I knew it, it was time to go back to Chile. I packed all my clothes and oddities carefully, trying not to be overweight in any one bag. Looking back, I wish I'd spent time holding Josie that morning but such is life. Somehow I had pictured the whole family going to the airport with me and Josie in the back seat as we had before. There, I thought, I'd tell her how much I loved her and I would say my goodbyes. As it turned out, they stayed home and Mike took me alone. Of course it made perfect sense and I felt like a silly old woman. Mike hugged me tight when he dropped me off and I cried foolishly as I turned away. The baby will never remember the many times I held her, fed her, diapered her. The circle of life. And I was back on a long flight to Chile.

Summer in Chile-and Christmas is coming!

It is truly summer, I think. I believe it was 90 degrees yesterday and will be again today. And almost Thanksgiving but it just doesn't feel like it. Living with opposite seasons is a little disconcerting. The ski resorts are opening in Colorado and our backyard is in full bloom these days. It's one thing to live someplace like Florida or California and have a warm Christmas but when it's actually warmer than any other time-that takes some time to sink in.













In our tiny front yard, the roses bloom. The bougainvillea died over the winter-how sad! And I have no idea why since I've never had it in my yard.













More roses cover the side of the house and lavender grows below. The yards are tiny in town and many perfectly kept. Yes, those are bars on the windows-almost a cultural thing here. All the houses have them, no matter hwat the neighborhood.














Homecenter(Chile's answer to Home Depot) celebrates the summer season with patio furniture and Christmas greetings for shoppers.














The gardening section in Homecenter....I love it there. I always sneak off to look at plants and flowers while Michael looks for nuts and bolts. I found Jasmine vines(which I know nothing about) for 490 pesos or about $1 each. Mostly I just look at all the varieties, some familiar and some not.















A few steps away from gardening and swimming pools, a huge Christmas section. I believe that's decorated fake wreaths-about $26 US.















When I snapped this photo, a staffperson shook her finger. No photographs of their displays apparently allowed. Maybe she thought I was a spy from another store.

They not only "do" Christmas here, they do it big!

Santiago to Mendoza, Argentina and Back Part III

And then, we were going down and I was quite happy not to be one of the brave souls sitting on the top level. Mountains eventually turned to foothills, then countryside and vineyards, then we rolled into Mendoza and the bus station. We walked out of the station where taxis wait and hopped in to go to our motel.

The motel (which we booked online) was attractive partly because they are a European, multilingual chain. The company that owns then also owns Motel 6, no kidding. And it looked like a European Motel 6-except for the bidet! As I said, the same and different. Everything very basic but a bidet a necessity apparently. Out our window, what else but a soccer field where the kids played as long as they could! By then it was 6 pm and we were starving but were told the restaurant didn’t open until 8 pm-shouldn’t have been surprised because they eat later here but we were a little sad. So we watched TV for a while and went back to restaurant promptly at 8. We had those famous Argentine $7 steaks and fries. It was so good, we repeated the next night. I also had to have several glasses of Argentine wine-for research, you know. It seemed delicious but I repeated the next night to be sure.

Nothing fancy but good to be off the bus.

The next morning, we set off for a day of tourism. First stop, the cambio to change convert Chilean pesos to Argentine pesos. It seems many will take Chilean pesos but I don’t think they were happy about it. The cambio looks just like a bank but isn’t. The exchange rate was actually better there than a bank. Then, we walked to one of the town squares, window shopping as we went. Mendoza has many, many trees everywhere you go. After sufficient walking, we stopped at café on the street and had the San Ramon special which consisted of a piece of ham, topped with cheese, topped with a fried egg and served with papa fritas(fries). Then we wandered the streets some more, mostly window shopping. It’s surprising to me that in both Argentina and Chile, clothes cost the same as in the US. I don’t know how people can afford them. Perhaps they just don’t buy as many. It’s also funny to me that you see stores that cater to hard rock bands-Metallica, Guns and Roses, Pink Floyd and all things black and pierced! Outside one store, a guy does a pretty good impression of Edward Scissorhands….

We hopped in another taxi and stopped at the mall near our motel. It was Argentina’s version of Cherry Creek mall with expensive designer type clothes so we soon decided it was time to go back to the motel and have a nap before dinner. Yes, the big steaks and wine. Michael found a casino and ran off to play his beloved blackjack for an hour or so where he won and came back before he lost. Smart guy.

A lovely old house downtown, a law office now I think.

The plaza-Argentina loves trees.

Edward Scissorhands in front of a store. He moved now and then to let you know he was real.

The next morning we went to the bus station early to catch a bus and soon we were back on the road. I did find some bus station shopping to keep me happy. I buy very little these days but love to look at things. The bus ride back was still fascinating-we even saw a different side and immigration coming back was quicker, maybe because we left earlier. The same and completely different. A trip to do again.

Many, many more photos. Amazing colors.

This one looks futuristic except for the bridge!

Yeah, I just loved the way this looks....

You just can't have enough rocks in photos, I think.

This looks like a digital painting. Nice shot, Michael.

Just so you don't think we were hiking, there's the rim of the bus window!

This mountain seemed to rise from nothing, like a promise.

Checkpoint along the way.

So that's how those rocks get their curves...the wind blows constantly too.

Snow on top and green below. We're back to summer and construction now....

Santiago to Mendoza, Argentina and Back Part II

The bus stopped at the top for immigration where it was cold and windy. The Argentine flag was valiantly flying but it no longer looked blue and white but was faded from its high perch at the top. They busline served a snack but many more experienced bus riders chose to buy something from the little café there. We were unfortunately in line behind 4 or 5 other large tour buses so immigration there was quite slow. We all got in a very long line, first to Chile’s immigration and then to Argentina’s immigration booth. Everyone’s papers and passport checked and stamped, as well as all the luggage and backpacks. All of that took nearly two hours, but we were able to admire the many Porsches coming through the shorter lane. There must have been some sort of Porsche rally or race because there were dozens. Finally, we were on our way.

Our bus waiting at immigration.

A tiny little restaurant and evidence that Argentinans use horse trailers(In Chile, I've only seen horses in closed trucks.)

The argentine flag waves goodbye as we get back on the road.

Santiago to Mendoza, Argentina and Back Part I

We recently took the 7 hour bus trip to Mendoza, Argentina. While 7 hours on a bus sounds unattractive, it was a really lovely trip. The bus was a large tour bus with comfortable seats (comparable to 1st class air travel seating) and cost 10,000 Chilean pesos or about $20 US. Dozens of tour buses go back and forth daily from Santiago to Mendoza so you can simply go to the bus station and choose one (of dozens of companies) that is leaving when you like.

The bus was a double decker and we chose the bottom level. I’ve heard the top level can be quite frightening but those who enjoy roller coasters might enjoy the upper level best! The large windows show great scenery and views but I wonder how those sitting on top felt going around the many curves(you can feel the top of the bus sway) on narrow roads passing large trucks and slow moving vehicles! I think we saw plenty from our level, thank you very much.

The views from the bus window were surprisingly good-photos even came out better than expected.










You did have passing trucks obscure the photo now and then- just when you almost had the perfect shot.

The views were just gorgeous and fascinating. Never ending and always changing colors and textures due to different mountains and terrain as well as the wind and water’s affect on them.

We took many photographs but every turn in the road brought a brand new view that seemed completely different and more beautiful. It’s hard to describe and the photos don’t do justice to them really but the Andes are simply remarkable. They are sometimes like the Rocky Mountains but are also completely different. That’s something that runs through life here-I see schoolchildren on the street, passing by the house, and think “they are the same as kids anywhere” as they laugh and share secrets and flirt. But at the same time, they are so very different too. I digress-back to the Andes…. We started from the Santiago bus terminal and the first part of the trip is the outskirts of Santiago, soon the views are countryside and vineyards. After a time, you can feel the bus begin to really climb and the foothills are in full view. The scenery continues to change and real mountains roll by outside. Small mountain streams and waterfalls appear here and there, along with sheep and even horses grazing amongst the rocky land. For about 2 ½ hours we gazed out the windows-I can’t describe how amazing the Andes look.

Both telephone lines and ski lifts run across the Andes. I didn't get a photo but many closed lodges up high.










It's summer here but plenty of snow on top for those that miss it!

The highway winding below us.













I don't remember finding rocks so amazing but they were...

A mountain peak seems to beckon us, as we near Argentina and immigration.